This expedition – which involves two of the Cordillera Blanca’s most sought after peaks in one of the most beautiful mountain settings in the world - is ideal for those seeking technical challenge at high altitude.
Quitaraju - West Face
Mount Quitaraju is situated southeast of Mount Alpamayo. It is much less busy than its famous neighbour, despite the fantastic views over Alpamayo (5947m), Artesonraju (6025m), Huascaran (6768m), and Chopicalqui (6354m) from the summit.
Alpamayo - Southwest Face – French Route
Mount Alpamayo is the jewel of the Andes: a steep, almost-perfect pyramid of ice. It is the most famous mountain in the Cordillera Blanca, becoming the obsession of many mountaineers after it was named ‘The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World’ at a photography competition in Munich in 1996. Climbers are inspired not so much by the difficulty of the climb, but by the stunning views of Alpamayo’s breath-taking pyramid and the magnificent setting among the many splendid 6000m+ snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera Blanca.
Despite Alpamayo’s 5947m peak not giving it a place amongst the highest summits of the Andes, the climb is considered to be one of the most technical, requiring good crampon and ice-climbing technique. There are incomparable views of steep ice faces, gigantic white walls and ridges - such as those of Huandoy North (6395m), Artesonraju (6025m) and Huascaran (6768m) - equal to the finest Himalayan scenery.
It takes two days of hiking to reach Alpamayo Base Camp, located in a remote part of the northern section of the Cordillera Blanca. The most common climbing route is known as the ‘French Route’, up the steep, fluted southwest face of the mountain.
Itinerary:
Day 1: Drive from Huaraz to Cashapampa (2990m).Trek to Llamacorral (3850m).
Duration: 6 hours
Day 2: Trek from Llamacorral to Alpamayo Base Camp (4200m).
Duration: 7 hours
Day 3: Trek from Alpamayo Base Camp to Moraine Camp (4800m). Duration: 3 hours
Day 4: Climb from Moraine Camp to Alpamayo High Camp (5300m).
Duration: 5 hours
Day 5: Climb from Alpamayo High Camp to Alpamayo Summit (5947m), and descend back to Alpamayo High Camp.
Duration: 9 hours
Day 6: Climb from Alpamayo High Camp to Quitaraju Summit (6034m), descend back to Alpamayo High Camp.
Duration: 10 hours
Day 7: Climb down from Alpamayo High Camp to Alpamayo Base Camp. Duration: 4 hours.
Day 8: Trek from Alpamayo Base Camp to Cashapampa. Drive back to Huaraz. Duration: 9 hours.
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